Time-Traveling Tailors

Taking a step into James Country Mercantile is like taking a step back in time. Its owners are among the country’s few remaining “sutlers,” or merchants who follow armies—in this instance, Civil War reenactors—to sell provisions.

James Country Mercantile, which specializes in authentic 19th-century clothing, has been a quaint shop in Liberty since 1996. The proprietors, Jean and Del Warren, have been deeply entrenched in the world of historical reenactments since 1986 when they first attended reenactment events and Del became interested in black powder period firearms. 

“He started fixing the guys’ guns on-site, so they could pass inspection and take part. He is known all over the country as the black powder expert,” Jean says. 

Eventually, this led them to become “sutlers,” or merchants who follow armies to sell provisions. 

“We’re one of only a few sutlers left,” Jean says. “There used to be about a hundred in the country, but COVID killed so many.” 

For a decade, they honed their craft through mail orders and traversing the circuit of living history events. Their products are not only aimed at Civil War reenactors but also those reenacting other people and events like Lewis and Clark and the Mexican War. 

“We also make clothing for more than reenactors,” Jean says. For example, they have been involved with Freedom’s Frontier National Heritage Area, a nonprofit created to promote and preserve stories of the Missouri Kansas Border War. The group needed some specialty tintype photographs in which the look of the fabric was especially important. 

Jean’s passion for historical accuracy permeates every aspect of their work, from the dropped shoulders on boxy men’s shirts to the high-waisted pants. 

“We will even make handmade buttonholes, although they now cost $10 per buttonhole,” Jean says. “Most everything we have is reproduction. You don’t want to reenact with the real thing and beat up history.” 

They source historically accurate fabric as well. Jean buys wool from mills in New York and California that is produced the same way as it was in the 1800s. 

Jean and her team of seamstresses painstakingly recreate the historical garments. They rely on old patterns and occasionally make their own, directly tracing from original designs to achieve the utmost authenticity. They do sew with machines, though, since the Singer sewing machine was invented in 1851. 

Although their shop is small at only 20 by 60 feet, it holds a treasure trove for living history reenactors, offering clothing, supplies, and accessories. 

Jean recalls a few special items that found their way into their collection and have since been sold. One was a typical western Missouri dress circa 1850, known as “Constance.” Then there was “Matilda,” a wedding dress from between 1890 and 1900 with a high neck and long sleeves. Jean explains that, unlike ball gowns of the time, brides were supposed to be completely covered. 

One particularly memorable project was creating a uniform for the portrayal of Robert E. Lee for a reenactment of John Brown’s Harpers Ferry Raid. Obtaining approval for such a historically significant garment required authorization from three separate entities: the National Park Service, the state of West Virginia, and the city of Harpers Ferry. 

James Country Mercantile’s reputation for quality and authenticity has garnered them clients from around the world, including supplying uniforms for significant historical reenactments and even sourcing wardrobes for movies like Ride with the Devil, directed by Ang Lee. 

Through their passion for historical accuracy and dedication to their craft, Jean and Del not only preserve the past but also bring it to life for generations to come. 

Visit 111 North Main Street, Liberty, or JamesCountry.com. 

Featured image courtesy of James Country Mercantile

Article originally published in the July/August 2024 issue of Missouri Life.